In a comment Rachel wrote: "I was thinking we would have to ask Inspector Brunetti to solve the mystery of the disappearing post for us."
You bet! Il commissario was joy-riding on the Canale Grande, and if you look closely you might detect that in January Venice does not sport so many tourists, and those who come are mostly from China and Japan and master the Art of Canouflage perfectly. .
Yes: they totally merge in "the real stuff":
Buy little factories in Italy to be able to use the label... Well - "home-made" seems to be the new trend :-)
I could show you now typical photos from typical Venice. In fact: I could use the photos my late fathers had taken when I was just a pre-school child -
Not changed that much - though: a little colour added nowadays :-)
No, I will serve you only some snippets from my impressions of Venice.
First a question that really baffles me: how come, I ask you, that my female friends all rejoyce in visting cemeteries - and ask me to join them - ME, almost a thanatophobic? (I cross myself if I have to walk along a freshly dug empty grave - no, I'm not Catholic, but in this case I am not choosy and grab what might protect me :-)
So: "Cimitero" it had to be, on my first day in Venice! (Came back hell-bent to "carpe diem" even more).
Cling to dear life as good as I can - as these spartan and easy to keep Venetian balcony succulents.
Visited the church Madonna dell' Orto - which Jane Hattat (!) personally recommended to me.
So beautiful! Built in the XIVth century - with Tintorettos, (by father and son) and other famous painters. AND a heavily built white Madonna with child - in the 15th century they found her in a garden (= "Orto") near by and think her to own legendary healing powers (I, though I am very glad to say I'm healthy, thought; Assuming that it is right --- it will not hurt -- See: cemetry and cross above. At this point Elvis has left the building - better: my son would have left this post, because he absolutely hates superstition, while I ... well, well, well).
For you, My Dear Enlighted Reader: skip the madonna if you feel like that - but look at this marvelous church - not many of the lazy tourists find it, because it is up in the north, out of the conventional paths. (Though - that is what all tourists think - the oxymoon of secret insider tips...)
When you go there, you are also near to the Ghetto Novo (Sestiere Cannarigio)
which was founded in 1516 - (the time before the Jews got only a temporary resident permission). The word "Ghetto" comes from here, and they had to wear a yellow sign on their clothes when in Venice. Each night the gates of the Ghetto were locked and guarded - and the inhabitants of the Ghetto had to pay for this (sic). Though to be fair: that was a common practice at that time: the German merchants who lived at the Fondaco dei Tedeschi had to endure the same.
I see: your eyes are shut, your face looks like a bored mask, only politeness keeps you smiling mysteriously. So I'll shut my mouth (for today, that is).
I am glad you posted your 'again' Venice and I did not have to send for Brunetti (much as all us female Venice lovers love him). My favourite time of year in the city, between Nov and Feb. I have been to the church of Madonna del'Orto; every good art student goes there but I have declined the cemetery on more than one occasion as not a suitable place to go. (I have however visited the Cemetery in Paris so what's the difference I ask myself). Difficult to skip Madonna though; the Madonna is everywhere. Always great to see Venice Britta. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteDear Rachel, so glad you liked it! I have to confess that I will have to watch Brunetti for the first time - am so deep in English TV-crime, that I seldom see something else.
DeleteI thought too that the time to be in Venice was perfect - not too crowded, sensible prices, and motivation to move, in the sun, but cold. Good that I find a soul that shares my aversion against cemeteries! The famous ones I have been schlepped to, but only the cute English ones around picturesque churches, where stones almost fall down and grass grows as it wants, are really acceptable for me.
You will find Brunetti in Donna Leon's books. She has been writing them for years and he and his wife and children do not grow older. It is how the readers want it to be!
DeleteThank you, Rachel. I know only a few of her novels, but will now look at the filmization.
DeleteI have no idea if there is a film. I think not. I am only a book reader.
DeleteThe Germans have filmed the series, just looked it up. Even the picture of il commissario does not convince me... will not watch it. But your British TV-crime- series (and I write about them) are often really, really worth to be watched!
DeleteIt looks a bit cold, though the succulents in the window box seemed acclimated.
ReplyDeleteIt was a bit cold, Joanne - but as we walked each day about 13 km we kept warm.
DeleteThis is a fun trip for me too. I love the church.
ReplyDeleteThe church was marvelous, Emma - inside so overwhelming paintings. But inside it was cooler than outside!
DeleteI'm enjoying these posts immensely, Brigitta. By the photos I can see that missing work or appointments because the streets are flooded is not an acceptable excuse.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Geo.! Yes - water everywhere - but you will find an excuse for arriving late: the little "streets" often end very surprisingly and are utterly contorted. No cars, no bicycles - no car chases for il commissario!
DeleteI love Venice but have ony been there once. Must go back. We stayed in the Pallazzo Zenobio - basic but very interesting.
ReplyDeleteI had there been only once before too, Tom - and it solved a question about "early memory": my memory was (almost) black-and-white -- meaning: I had memorized the photos. But also, genuine: the smell of damp houses.
DeleteBritta, you were close to me - only an hour's train ride :)
ReplyDeleteI love Venice in winter. I find Venice to be very romantic when there is fog. You visited during a quite time, because from today to the 28th Venice enters into the masked carnival season - it is a beautiful experience, but Venice can also be very congested during this period.
Greetings Maria x
Dear Maria, I would have liked to meet you! Maybe there is a chance for some meeting "in between" if I really go to Italy for a month this year - because I felt that it would be the best way to learn Italian. But I am not sure at the moment.
DeleteWe had no fog in Venice (and luckily no wet feet when the flood comes in), but sometimes cold wind - but so much sun that it made everything cheerful. Yes - Carneval -- it must be interesting to see! (One store was different from those cheap ones - they offered beautiful "Rococo" costumes - so lovely!
Greetings, Britta x
I am one of those who enjoy cemeteries as many resemble outdoor sculpture galleries but in peaceful surroundings, especially in cities such as Paris.
ReplyDeleteLove the notice 'not made in China'.
I have thus seen a few very impressive cemeteries - but don't feel at ease, even not when famous people are buried there. As I said: the modest little grave stones "thrown" upon the grass around an English church please me: there I can sit happily and watch birds and stones and life.
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